Personally I would feel better with the yellow coating for a permanent installation. Looking closely at the threaded pipe fittings included, some seemed fine but I felt the largest one had excessively flat-topped threads. When this flat-topped male thread seats into the "V" of the mating female thread, it will rely too much on the teflon tape or pipe goop to seal, and possibly leave a spiral path for gas leakage. I did not measure the thread by any means, or compare it to any specification, but I felt the flat at the thread crest was unusually large just by eyeball in my experience as a professional machinist.
Back around my grandmother's sister was killed when her house blew up in a gas explosion. According to a newspaper article I read about it, the explosive force was so great that a row of trees in the yard were sheared off leaving just stumps. I'd rather pay a few bucks more to be safe. Nice gas appliance hook-up kit. The hose is only 22 inches, so probably best to stick to appliances that won't have to be moved any distance after connection e.
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Technically, they call the hose: The kit also includes: Special gas seal tape for connections yellow. The components are of good quality and accommodate a variety of potential appliance and supply connections. I wish I'd had this when our old gas water heater had to be replaced. Recommended, if the length suits your application. The only thing I see that is different from what you might buy in a large hardware store is the metal color of the flexible 22" hose. The flexible metal tubing was coated in a bright yellow.
The yellow signifies gas. It's a safety thing, and a good idea. Don't know why this tubing is not coated Other than that, this worked fine for installation of a new gas cooktop. Unlike the moving and installation of refrigerators and stand-alone stoves and such, the delivery companies for the familiar large warehouse hardware stores do not install things like set-in cooktops.
We needed to hire a plumber repairman familiar with propane to come and drop a gas line from the attic to the kitchen. It was one of those installations that needed to be done in steps, as he first needed to confirm that the line could be dropped successfully before we went out and bought the cooktop. So, ordering this kit online helped him and us out and saved us some money, too. He approved of this kit, so we were good to go. So I highly recommend it. No use getting overly fancy with a gas shutoff kit.
This one is of sufficient quality to get the job done right. It comes with a nice brass ball type valve for shut off. The three fittings should cover all of your connecting needs.
You can get the specifics on them in the description. It also includes the hose and gas rated seal tape. I prefer using the coating dope but that is a personal preference. I converted my home over to natural gas many years ago, and had the job inspected by the gas company before turning on the gas. He complimented me on doing a superb job. Home Depot will cut any size pipe and thread it for you in the event you need an extension, or if you are running a fresh new line from a tap.
It really is a measuring game.
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It would be a good idea, and is actually required by code to install a clean out right before the device. That is not complicated, you just have a down facing pipe with a T in it so you have a residual nipple below the actual feed line and then cap it off with a mushroom cap on the end. This kit is as good as any standard kit I have seen. The brass shutoff valve operates smoothly and provides a complete seal when off.
A small amount of gas seal tape is provided. The main gas connector included with the kit is 22" long; I wouldn't want to put a strain on the line, so you'll want no more than about 20" from your gas outlet to the appliance inlet. The kit will work well for both a propane or a natural gas connection.
We've got eight natural gas appliances in the house, so this is now on the basement wall as a backup kit for when one of our lines or connections fails as they do from time to time. See all 21 reviews. Amazon Giveaway allows you to run promotional giveaways in order to create buzz, reward your audience, and attract new followers and customers. Learn more about Amazon Giveaway. Set up a giveaway.
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AmazonGlobal Ship Orders Internationally. Leave several feet or more of the range cable in this area.
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Strip the outer jacket. Remove 6" of the jacket and any plastic shielding from around the conductors. Inspect the range outlet. Install the supplied cable connector to the range outlet with the hardware provided. It will be easier to wire the outlet if the connector is installed into the bottom of the outlet rather than the back. The bottom installation allows the cable to be easily passed into the outlet and wired without having to bend the conductors 90 degrees.
Either way will work, one is just a little harder to work than the other. Lay the cable into the outlet by first lining up the jacket so that it will just be visible into the outlet body. Arrange the conductors to lay into the terminals.
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The black and red conductors will land in the gold terminals it does not matter which of these two conductors land in the left or right gold terminals , the white conductor will land into the silver terminal and the uninsulated conductor will land in the green terminal. Cut the conductors for the outlet. Carefully strip the cable as per the strip gauge indicated on the range outlet.
Be sure to remove all insulation from the part of the conductor that will be in the terminal. Use extreme care to not nick any of the conductors. A nicked conductor must be cut back and redone. Since the working area in the outlet is so small, all the conductors will have to be re-cut to length and stripped over again.
If using aluminum cable, apply a generous coating of aluminum oxide inhibitor to the individual stripped portion of the conductors and into the wire compression terminals of the range outlet the amount of inhibitor should not be so much that it drips from the conductor or terminal. Application of oxide inhibitor to aluminum conductors is a code requirement, and must not be skipped.
Copper conductors however, do not require application of any oxide inhibitors. Secure the range outlet to the wall or baseboard in a location where when the range cord is connected, will not interfere with placement of the range and closing of any range drawers.
Inspect the back of the range to get an idea as which locations will meet this requirement. Often times, removing the drawer will allow access to the wall - where it may be marked with a pencil, etc. Install the outlet cover and press any excess range cable back into the hole. Remove excess slack from the cable. Allow for 10" or so of slack available should it need for later use - the cable can still be used , and pull the rest back to the electrical panel.
Route the cable to the connector mounted in the electric service panel. Mark the cable jacket where it will be clamped at the locknut side of the connector. Determine how mach cable will be needed to a. Add 2 feet 0. Install the cable into the electric service panel through the cable connector. Remove the jacket and any plastic shielding from around the conductors.